How can I measure Cut Grade for fancy shapes?

« Back to Previous Page
0
0
Marked as spam
Posted by Robert Hensley
Asked on July 12, 2014 4:08 am
812 views
0
Private answer

Cut Quality for Fancy Shapes

This is a good question and it deserves a comprehensive answer, so… here goes!

The first and foremost answer is… look at them yourself. Your eye will tell you what YOU like, and that is the most important.

In general, there is not a consensus in the trade about what constitutes the best quality of cut for any of the fancy shapes. The one real exception is that AGS has established official Cut Grades for Princess Cuts.

Also, we believe strongly that a set of guidelines is only good when they are properly explained. We do NOT believe that there is such a thing as an Ideal Cut diamond, because the question must be asked: ideal for whom? You will be surprised at the things that influence cut quality and performance. For instance, the size of a person’s head and their hairstyle will affect the light performance, and different cuts will accomadate the different head sizes better than others! Yes, this is a factor because the head of the observer interferes with light from behind them. Therefore, cutters design shapes to gather light from 17-27 degrees off center, away from the head of the observer. Strange to think of such things, but true!

Also, the guidelines should be defined for each different set of tastes, and according to the nature of the internal structure of the material. Diamond from one mine can look entirely different than one from a different mine, even when both are cut to exactly the same proportions.

When you and I look at the same diamond, one of us might love it while the other does not. The difference is in personal taste. Take rounds, for instance. If I like a lot of fire and you are more focused on overall brilliance, the proportions will need to be different to achieve the two different effects in a stone.

Let me give an example. For more fire, I will want a round diamond with the smallest table of about 53% or so, with a crown angle of around 34.5%. On the other hand, a person that likes brilliance over everything else would probably prefer a larger table of about 60% and total depth becomes very important.

So the same applies to a Princess Cut and any other fancy shape. The range of possibilities for a Princess Cut in the industry is much wider than for rounds. We have seen stones with a table of 75% and depth of 75% and it still looks very nice. But measurements and other details are not easy to fix for fancies.

Best just to see them, or ask your dealer how it looks and be sure to get an excellent return policy and satisfaction guarantee.

Also, for now, the most important factors in your search might be polish and symmetry. Look for excellent or at least a very good grade for these two areas on the cert. Depth and table percentages could be a little larger than for rounds, around 5-10% larger we might estimate.

Without published guidelines for fancy cuts, we would prefer not to give any exact guidelines at this point, since they would only be our own opinion, and might not agree with yours or with any other experts.

Marked as spam
Posted by Robert Hensley
Answered on July 18, 2014 2:54 am
« Back to Previous Page